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Views: 0 Author: Alfredturbo Publish Time: 2026-05-06 Origin: Site
Hello, fellow old truck enthusiasts, repair shop owners, and foreign trade partners around the world! We are a foreign trade factory specializing in auto parts, dealing with old car enthusiasts from all over the world every day. When it comes to old cars, Mike from the United States, Jack from Australia, and Chris from Canada have all come to us for parts for the same vehicle recently — yes, it’s the 1987 Toyota Turbo Truck, known as the "legendary car" in the off-road circle.
This car is nearly 40 years old now and is extremely popular abroad, especially the turbocharged 22R-TE version. Many foreigners don’t buy it for daily commuting, but for Restoration, Rock Crawling, or as a collection. However, as an old car, it is inevitable to have some "minor issues" when it gets old. Today, combining the actual cases of these foreign customers, we will talk about what parts to replace during the car’s restoration and how to maintain and repair it most easily.
We have been in this industry for nearly 10 years, cooperating with customers from more than a dozen countries including the United States, Canada, Australia, and the Netherlands. We have seen too many people ruin a good old truck due to choosing the wrong parts or improper maintenance, and we have also seen many customers achieve great results with little money, restoring their 30-year-old cars to look as good as new. Today, we have sorted out these experiences so that even if you are a novice, you can easily get started without wasting money.
The engine of an old car is usually the top priority of restoration. The 1987 model is equipped with a 2.4L 22R-TE turbocharged engine. Although the technology is classic, the rubber parts and seals have basically aged and deteriorated after thirty to forty years. When we shipped goods to Mike in California, USA, the core parts he focused on inspecting were the following.
The turbocharger is the soul of this car and also the most prone to problems. When Mike just bought the car, stepping on the gas pedal not only produced blue smoke but also made the acceleration very sluggish, making it particularly strenuous to drive. Later, he contacted us, and we helped him identify the problem based on his description, provided him with the corresponding parts, and solved the problem quickly.
First, inspect the turbocharger body and seal rings. Blue smoke is mostly caused by aging of the turbocharger’s oil seal rings, which causes oil to leak into the cylinders and burn. We recommend customers directly replace the reinforced seal kit instead of trying to repair the old seal rings, which is not only convenient but also avoids future problems. In addition, if the turbocharger impeller is damaged or has severe carbon deposits, it should be repaired or replaced as appropriate; otherwise, the turbocharger speed will not increase, and the power will always be insufficient, making the seal kit replacement useless.
Second, inspect the intake and exhaust pipelines and intercooler interfaces. After decades of use, the old rubber intake pipes of the car will basically harden, crack, or even break, leading to air leakage, insufficient boost pressure, and naturally weak power. We provided Mike with a complete set of thickened silicone vacuum hoses and new intercooler joint clamps, which completely solved the air leakage problem. After installation, the car became "full of vitality" immediately, and the acceleration was much smoother. Mike even sent us feedback specifically, saying the effect exceeded expectations.
If your car has significantly insufficient power and the cylinder pressure is found to be low after inspection, you may have to "open up" the engine for a major maintenance. Jack from Australia encountered this situation, and he directly ordered a set of engine restoration package from us, which solved all problems at once.
The most critical part is the complete set of cylinder gaskets and oil seals. After being parked for so long, various rubber seals have basically hardened and aged, making them prone to oil and water leakage. Our factory’s engine gasket kit includes cylinder gaskets, valve oil seals, and crankshaft oil seals. Replacing them all at once can completely avoid the trouble of frequent oil and water leakage in the later stage, and there is no need to disassemble and repair the engine repeatedly, saving time and costs.
In addition, if your car consumes excessive oil during driving or the engine has obvious abnormal noise, it is likely that the piston rings or bearings are severely worn. Jack’s car had a very high mileage, and the wear of the piston rings and bearings had exceeded the normal range. We directly sent him standard-sized piston rings, as well as main bearings and connecting rod bearings. After he bored the cylinder and installed them directly, the engine ran as tight as a new car, and there was no longer any abnormal noise or oil burning.
When an old car is parked for a long time, the old gum in the fuel tank will block the fuel injectors, and the circuit plugs are prone to oxidation and poor contact. These will all lead to difficult starting, idling jitter, and even insufficient power. Chris from Canada encountered the problem of difficult starting, especially when the car was hot; sometimes it took several attempts to start it. Later, with our suggestion, he replaced the relevant parts and completely solved the problem.
First, replace the fuel pump and filter. The reason why Chris’s car was difficult to start was that the check valve of the old fuel pump leaked, resulting in unstable fuel supply pressure and insufficient fuel supply when the engine started. We recommended a high-flow internal fuel pump assembly to him, along with a new gasoline filter. After replacement, the fuel supply pressure became stable immediately, and the car could start successfully with one try whether it was cold or hot.
Second, update the ignition coil and spark plug wires. Although the ignition system of the 22R-TE is distributor-type, the resistance of the old wire set will increase after long-term use, which is prone to misfire, leading to engine idling jitter and insufficient power. We recommend customers use high-voltage resistant silicone ignition wires, together with a new distributor cap and rotor. This way, the ignition energy is sufficient, the engine idling becomes stable, and the power can be restored to the best state.
Even if the power is restored, if the chassis is loose, driving will be particularly uncomfortable and there will be potential safety hazards. The front suspension of this car is double wishbone, and the rear suspension is leaf spring. If it is used for off-roading all year round, the bushings and shock absorbers are basically worn out and must be replaced in time.
Mike from the United States especially likes to drive this car to play in the deserts of Nevada. The old suspension made him feel extremely bumpy every time, and the steering was also very vague. Later, he ordered a set of suspension-related parts from us, and after replacement, the driving experience was directly improved to a higher level.
The key parts to replace are the control arm bushings and ball joints. Once the bushings of the front suspension crack or age, there will be a "creaking" metal impact sound when passing speed bumps, and the steering play will be particularly large, making driving unstable. We sent Mike a complete set of reinforced bushings made of polyurethane (PU) material. This kind of bushing is more wear-resistant and durable than the original rubber bushing. After replacement, the steering play disappeared immediately, there was no abnormal noise when passing speed bumps, and driving became particularly stable.
In addition, shock absorbers and leaf spring hangers should not be ignored. After the hanger bushings of the rear leaf spring are worn, the rear of the car will have an obvious dragging feeling, and there will be shaking during driving, affecting control. We replaced the heavy-duty shock absorbers for Mike and also replaced the leaf spring bushings of the rear axle. The body posture became upright immediately, and it was particularly stable whether driving in the desert or in the urban area.
The most feared problems of old trucks are vague steering and drive shaft vibration during high-speed driving, which not only affect the driving experience but also have potential safety hazards. Jack from Australia encountered the problem of drive shaft vibration; when driving at more than 80 mph, the car would shake violently, which was very dangerous. Later, with our help, he successfully solved the problem.
First, inspect and replace the steering tie rods and dust covers. If the steering is a bit loose, it is likely that the inner and outer steering ball joints are severely worn. The ball joints we provide to customers are all with double-layer dust covers, which have excellent sealing performance, can effectively prevent sand and dust from entering, extend the service life of the ball joints, and are easy to install, which can be done by yourself.
Second, maintain the drive shaft center bearing and universal joint. Vibration of the car body during high-speed driving is generally caused by loose or worn universal joints of the drive shaft or the intermediate center bearing. Jack’s car had this problem. We replaced the all-steel universal joint for him and did a good job of dynamic balancing. After replacement, driving at more than 100 mph was also very stable, and there was no longer any vibration.
Soft brakes are a common problem for old cars, and the 1987 Toyota Turbo Truck is no exception. After all, the original factory used single-piston calipers, which have limited braking effect. Moreover, after the brake system parts age, the braking effect will be worse, with great potential safety hazards, which must be upgraded and replaced in time.
First, inspect the brake master cylinder and vacuum booster. If the brake pedal feels soft and the braking distance is significantly longer, first check if the brake master cylinder is leaking internally or losing pressure. The brake master cylinders of our factory have all passed bench tests, with guaranteed quality. After replacement, the feel of the brake pedal becomes firm immediately, and the braking response is much faster.
Second, replace the brake hoses and calipers. The original rubber brake hoses will expand and age after decades of use, leading to failure of hydraulic pressure to be smoothly transmitted to the calipers and poor braking effect. We recommend customers replace them with braided steel brake hoses, which are more durable and not easy to expand. Then replace the re-bored brake calipers, which can directly improve the braking response by one level, making the brakes more sensitive and safer.
No matter how good the parts are, if you don’t know how to take care of this "turbine master" in daily use, it will be in vain. Especially the old turbocharged engine like the 22R-TE has a "stubborn temper"; improper maintenance can easily lead to problems. We often tell these maintenance tips to foreign customers. As long as you do them well, you can make your old truck last another 20 years.
This is the core survival rule for old turbocharged cars. Chris from Canada didn’t understand it at first and almost ruined a new turbocharger. Later, after listening to our suggestions, there was no more turbocharger damage.
First, don’t step on the gas pedal immediately after starting. When starting cold in the morning, the oil settles in the oil pan, and the turbocharger bearings have not been fully lubricated. At this time, you have to let the engine idle for 3 to 5 minutes, waiting for the oil pump to deliver pressurized oil to the turbocharger bearings for full lubrication before driving. If you step on the gas pedal immediately after starting, the turbocharger will be in a dry friction state, which will be damaged soon, and you will have to spend a lot of money to replace the turbocharger.
Second, idle to cool down before turning off the engine. Especially after driving at high speed or towing heavy loads, the temperature of the turbocharger can reach thousands of degrees Celsius. At this time, do not turn off the engine directly by turning the key. The correct way is to let the engine idle for 2 to 3 minutes, allowing the oil to continue circulating to cool the turbocharger. If you turn off the engine directly, the heat of the turbocharger cannot be dissipated, which will fry the oil into carbon deposits. Over time, it will seize the turbocharger bearings and cause the turbocharger to be scrapped.
Turbocharged engines have much higher requirements for engine oil than naturally aspirated cars. This money really cannot be saved, otherwise, it will not be worth the loss. Many foreign customers initially used mineral oil to save money, which led to turbocharger damage and even higher maintenance costs.
First, fully synthetic engine oil is the bottom line. Do not use mineral oil, which is prone to deterioration and volatilization at high temperatures and cannot provide effective lubrication and protection for the turbocharger and engine. The high-grade fully synthetic engine oil we recommend to foreign customers is high-temperature resistant and not easy to volatilize, which can better protect the turbocharger and engine. In addition, the oil change cycle should be shortened. Foreign customers generally change the engine oil every 5,000 kilometers or half a year to keep the oil clean and better play the lubrication role.
Second, do not be careless with the air filter and oil filter. If the air filter is blocked or has a hole, sand-carrying air will enter the engine and turbocharger. The turbocharger impeller rotates at hundreds of thousands of revolutions per minute; once hit by sand, it is easy to be scrapped. The oil filter should also be a good brand with a bypass valve to prevent the engine and turbocharger from being damaged due to lack of oil when the oil filter is blocked.
After driving an old car for a long time, the owner must have some "listening" and "observing" skills. Paying more attention in daily use can help you find problems in time, avoid small problems from becoming major failures, and save maintenance costs. We often teach foreign customers some simple self-inspection methods, which even novices can easily learn.
First, check the ground and exhaust gas. If there is a black oil stain on the ground after the car is parked for a night, it means there is an oil leak. Focus on checking the turbocharger oil return pipe interface and the crankshaft oil seal at the rear of the engine; these are the parts prone to oil leakage. If oil leakage is found, replace the relevant parts in time to avoid insufficient oil in the engine and turbocharger due to excessive oil leakage. In addition, you can judge problems by looking at the exhaust gas: blue smoke means burning oil, white smoke means checking the coolant, and black smoke means checking the air filter and fuel injectors.
Second, listen to the sound and check the vacuum. A "hissing" air leakage sound during acceleration is basically caused by a broken vacuum pipe or a leaking intake manifold gasket. Teach you a simple method: spray a circle of carburetor cleaner on the vacuum pipe and intake manifold interface. If the engine speed changes, it means that place is the leak point. Replacing the parts in time can solve the problem. This method is particularly useful and has been tried by many foreign customers.
Whether it’s Mike from the United States, Jack from Australia, or Chris from Canada, they all became our regular customers and often introduce new customers to us. Why? Because we are a source factory and can provide them with the most convenient and cost-effective services and products.
First, complete models, specializing in old car parts. We have thousands of parts for the 1987 Toyota Truck, including engine gaskets, suspension bushings, steering tie rods, turbocharger repair kits, etc. You don’t have to place orders all over the world; you can get all the parts needed for restoration and maintenance in one stop, saving time and energy.
Second, quality comparable to OE, reasonable price. We sell directly from the factory without middlemen earning the difference, so the price we offer to foreign customers is very favorable. Moreover, our product quality is guaranteed: the rubber parts use anti-aging formulas, and the metal parts undergo professional heat treatment. The products sent to foreign customers are directly installed on the car, with few adaptability and quality problems.
Third, one-stop export service. The most troublesome thing for foreign customers is customs clearance. We have accumulated rich export experience after doing foreign trade for so many years, covering packaging, logistics, and documents. Customers only need to wait for the goods to be safely delivered to their warehouse or repair shop without worrying about any intermediate links.
The 1987 Toyota Turbo Truck is a treasure. As long as you choose the right parts, install them carefully, and maintain them diligently, it can accompany you for another twenty years. If you are also restoring this car or need any parts for old Toyotas, please feel free to contact us. Provide the model and year, and we will immediately provide you with a detailed parts list to help you save time, effort, and money!
